Fish is one of those foods you either love or hate. Despite the fact that doctors and nutritionists never miss an opportunity to extol the virtues of eating fish, there are those who turn around and run as soon as they encounter a can of sardines. In fact, eating fresh seafood only became a national habit after World War II, when portable refrigeration enabled the transportation of fish from seaports to the heartland. You either ate fresh saltwater fish along the coast or ate bass, catfish and trout from your local pond.

Of course, Victorian swells couldn’t eat fish with just any cutlery, so they used special cutlery called fish knives. Let’s sniff their allure.

For starters, there are plenty of fish that have ended up under the knife. One database estimates that there are over 30,000 species of saltwater fish, of which about two-thirds never exceed one pound. Almost everything else is fair game for seafood lovers. In fact, extensive testing conducted to develop an emergency fishing kit for Allied pilots shot down during World War II showed that the flesh of just four saltwater fish species has been shown to be toxic to humans. While today those of us who like to feast on tuna salad sandwiches should be aware of the mercury present in these flagship species, we will live long and prosper still by incorporating seafood into our diets on a regular basis. .

OK, enough about that. The fish knife was born in England during the first half of the 19th century. Eating well was an event, and the upper classes had to make sure they had the right tools for the job. Over time, nearly 200 different utensils have been developed to accommodate an increasing variety of foods available. Classes were served one by one, each with its own rituals and requirements. Fish knives featured a dull scalloped blade on one side to allow the removal of delicate bones and an equally blunt flat blade on the other so that the skin could be separated from the flesh.

Inasmuch as the fish served were of small local species, with the larger offshore variety always out of reach, the fish knife was all a Viscount could have wished for as he and his family dug into their daily banquet.

As the 19th century progressed, fish knives became more and more decorative, often with maritime scenes engraved on their blades. Most were silver or silver-plated, the reason being that pewter and other metals tended to discolor unpleasantly after exposure to fish oils. The handles were often made of mother-of-pearl, stone or other materials which gave a distinctive two-tone look to the set. Despite their usefulness, however, fish knives fell out of favor in the early 20th century as fine dining gave way to the financial demands and time constraints of industrial expansion. By the end of World War I they were the butt of ridicule, a shining example of class excess, and most were shunned for good.

Today, such knives often surface in antique galleries like ours. They’re inexpensive, beautifully made, and have all the utility that made them popular over 100 years ago. Most notably, they often show little to no wear, making them chic gifts for a hostess or bride. Later sets were crafted from stainless steel, but the early ones still tucked away in their custom boxes exude an old-world charm that is often missing in other categories.

Collectors too are taking note, struck by their wide variety, low cost, and overall good condition. Who knows, maybe this trout almond will taste better with a fish knife in hand.

Mike Rivkin and his wife, Linda, are longtime residents of Rancho Mirage. For many years he was an award-winning catalog editor and authored seven books, as well as countless articles. Now he is the owner of the Palm Springs Antique Galleries. His antiques column appears Saturdays in The Desert Sun. Want to send Mike a question about antiques? Email him at [email protected]